Havana, ooh na na . . .

Feb 17

As the popular song goes by Camila Cabello, “Havana, ooh, na, na . . .”

I headed out to that island nation recently for an extended weekend to get a feel for it. When I visit a spot, I like to make the first trip and sort of reconnaissance so that in subsequent trips, if any, I can focus my attention on specific spots or activity.

A little background on me: in the summer of 1980, I was an exchange student in the old Soviet Union. I saw what life was like under that Communist country and I kept that in mind going to this one. Remarkably, it is now easy for Americans to visit Cuba. There is a list of “reasons” that are okayed by the American government and one is “support for the Cuban people,” meaning you pinky swear promise that in Cuba you are definitely NOT there as a tourist and you will only spend money on private businesses, none run by the state. Now, these businesses just happen to be the ones that cater to tourists, like hotels, restaurants, tours, etc. BUT you are not there as a tourist. Wink, wink. So you book a flight, use Expedia or like website to find a hotel and book your stay (it indicates whether it is “okay” for Americans), buy the pink tourist visa from an agency online or from the airline at the airport, and less than 48 hours before your departure, go online to Cuba’s site where you fill out a customs form called the Dviajeros (warning: I could not find it in English pero comprendo español, pues . . .), and there you go. Just know that American customs does not want you bringing back Cuban cigars or rum. If you need to know more details, such as where I stayed and ate, give me a shout. I found that the concierges at my hotel where invaluable for booking tours.

Didya see the old cars, Steph?

Havana is an automotive time warp and the cars of the 1950s are everywhere. Remember, the revolution brought by Fidel Castro occurred in 1959 and at that time he and his cronies closed Cuba to the world to build the worker’s paradise. At the airport, I was met by William, a local taxi driver whom the hotel arranged for me to get into town. He told me that his car – a 1954 Chevy – was purchased new by his grandfather and had been handed down to his father and later to him. The Cubans have been very resourceful, replacing full motors and transmissions over the years and even retrofitting the cars for air conditioning. They have to be because it is not easy getting spare parts and . . .

And?

Look, it is not easy for the Cuban people to get anything. Cuba is a poor country and it is evident from the poverty you will see there. Cuba depended on the Soviet Union heavily and with its collapse that money disappeared. In 1960, the US imposed an embargo on Cuba in retaliation for nationalization of American held properties and businesses, and that has hurt them financially. Throw in some natural disasters, namely hurricanes, and you will see why a considerable amount of the Cuban infrastructure and buildings is in ruins. In 1993, Castrol began to allow citizens to start private businesses, hence why you have hotels and whatnot that you can patronize. But a worker’s paradise it isn’t. There are food shortages, gas shortages, and lack of supplies where a Cuban can repair his or her home.

But let me tell you – the Cuban people are resilient and still proud of being Cuban. And they are friendly. The most astonishing thing I experienced was their candor when talking to foreigners. Some 65 years later, the zeal and memories of the revolution have faded. They are openly critical of their government. Everyone has a cellphone, it seems, and WhatsApp numbers and Instagram accounts are exchanged freely. They want to have a better life and the developed countries are not unknown to them. One fellow was telling me how his buddy managed to leave and went to Nicaragua, a common first step towards migrating to the United States – his friend facetimed him to show him how well stocked a local grocery store was in Nicaragua compared to a Cuban one. If his friend made it to the States, can you imagine how he felt stepping into a Kroger?

Here is a gallery of what I saw in Cuba. Havana is a 50-minute flight from Miami. You can take day trips to the countryside as I did (driver/English speaking guide was $180 USD for the entire day). Me, I recommend you consider a trip to Cuba – you know, “for the support of the Cuban people.” Remember, the issue with where you stay is one for the American government – the Cuban government does not care.

Click on any image in the gallery below to see the full image.